Less is More – Small Diameter Watches (≤ 40 mm)

That retro-watches were a determining trend of the last years; you should surely have noticed as readers of this and other watch blogs. Many watch manufacturers have rummaged in their archives and revived the classics of the 50s, 60s and 70s. Very often they have adapted the watch diameter to the prevailing taste of over 40-millimeter small diameter watches. In a sense, they have taken over the design of the old watches and a little “inflated” in terms of size. Because clocks were much smaller then – and that did not quite fit into the taste of the time. A safe house number and good mainstream have always been 41 to 42 millimeters Case diameter (please do not let us talk about the excesses well over 45mm).

Small diameter watches

  • Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition – 38mm

Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition

Omega was very much based on the old Seamaster models – in design and size. Price: from 5,700 euros.

  • Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight – 39 mm

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight

In principle, the Tudor Black Bay Black (41mm) – just in small and something “cheaper.” Price: from 3,040 euros (vs. 3,140 euros). Find out more about the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight in the watch blog Monochrome.

  • Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook – 37.3 mm

Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook

This model was already in considerable 45mm (see right) – now the much smaller and cheaper version. Price: from 1.820 Euro (vs. from 2.320 Euro) More.

  • Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic – 38 mm

Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic

The legendary Navitimer – without chronograph and a little bit handier. Not so small – the price: 3,920 euros.

  • Oris Sixty-Five – 36 and 40 mm

Oris Sixty-Five

It started with 42mm – and now follows a 40mm version and one in 36mm. Interestingly enough, in this 2016 Oris Sixty Five test, I had more than suggested that a smaller version might be a good idea 🙂 Now, it has become two. Price: from 1,900 euros.

  • Bulova Oceanographer “Devil Diver” Limited Edition 40 mm

Bulova Oceanographer "Devil Diver" Limited Edition

With 40mm, the giant among the new little ones. More about Bulova’s limited 70s new edition at Gear Patrol (price: about $ 1,500).

  • Glashütte Original Sixties Annual Edition 39 mm

Glashütte Original Sixties Annual Edition

With the Sixties collection, you have to say that Glashütte Original has been offering this size for years. So the trend does not follow, but the smaller diameter has always been in the program. For larger wrists and purses there is a 42mm version including panorama date (photo right). Price: 6,300 (39mm) Euro or 7,800 Euro (42mm).

Trends are changing

But that is changing. The diameters settle for new watches more often – and especially since the Basel World 2018 – at and below the 40 -mm mark . Or put another way: 39 millimeters could be the new 42 millimeters (or the new green – or at least the new black?)) Some manufacturers do not even shrink back 36 millimeters . And we still talk about men’s watches here.

It is interesting that according to one or the other watch manufacturer, this demand actually comes from male watch buyers – and one meets their wishes (finally). I am not surprised. It does not have to be big and flashy. And for watch manufacturers, such unisex sizes certainly have their advantages.

So that the whole thing does not remain a steep thesis, here are a few new watches that can be worn by the gentleman of today – completely free of wholesale mania:

For all those who can not do anything with small diameter watches: Do not worry. Most manufacturers only expand their assortment and customer choice – which was long overdue. Of course, you will continue to get watches that are well over 40 millimeters.

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